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Topics - Kong Ming

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1
cRPG Technical problems / Horn Bow Accuracy Bug?
« on: July 29, 2011, 10:41:03 pm »
I'd love it if someone else could confirm this.  I don't really even use the Horn/Strong Bow anymore but I know a lot of people do so I wanted to mention this.  I was doing a crosshair comparison with all the various bows with my 7PD, 163 WPF Archer, to see how large an effect additional PD had on accuracy.  The testing proved that the bonus is significant enough that my lower PD bows have markedly tighter crosshairs even with a lower accuracy rating.  However, while testing, I noticed that for some reason, the Horn Bow's crosshairs were at least TWICE as bad as any other bow I had.  According to it's PD requirement and Accuracy rating it should have been slightly better than the Longbow I was looking at, but it was definitely MUCH MUCH WORSE.  Unless the game was just behaving oddly for me specifically, there seems to be some quirk that makes the Horn Bow far less accurate than its statistics suggest and indeed, FAR less accurate than all the other bows in general.  Since this is such a popular bow, I have to assume that this phenomenon is quite new and I wanted to bring my discovery to the developers' attention.  I can post screens if necessary, I'm just lazy.   Like I said at the beginning, can anyone else confirm this?

2
Beginner's Help and Guides / Archey Accuracy
« on: June 10, 2011, 11:13:26 am »
Ages ago, I wrote a long and extensive guide on Archery.  It described what was once a fairly straight-forward tradeoff of damage vs. accuracy.  Then chadz changed EVERYTHING about archery, and ever since I've been too lazy to experiment and try to figure it all out again.  I've seen plenty of discussions about the best bow or the best build, blah, blah, blah......I have one very simple question that I'm hoping someone can answer with actual proof instead of hearsay.  What is the best way to optimize accuracy as an archer as of the most recent updates; i.e. what is the MOST accurate archer build with respect to PD, WPF, and bow used?  And by this I mean reticule size.  I want a reticule that settles to a point.  Someone tell me how to do it.   :wink:

3
Scene Editing / NA Map Management
« on: February 11, 2011, 06:30:05 pm »
Hey guys!
Because of Airith's busy schedule, and because it's just better to have help in life, I'm going to be serving as his assistant with respect to managing the maps on the NA servers, specifically, the 100-man, 80-man, Siege, and Strategus servers.  If you have thoughts or ideas about the maps running on these servers you can contact either of us about it.  My goal over the next couple of days is to update the maplist information for the servers and make it available here so we can begin to figure out which maps we like, which we don't, and which just need some more work.  As always, thanks for your patience as we try out and develop new maps and thanks to the mappers out there for all your creativity and hard work!

   -Kong Ming

4
This guide is an attempt to simplify map-making for people who want to try it.  It is still being perfected so please add your input.  I'm trying to avoid using the module system in this guide since it seems to be a big stumbling block for people who are intimidated by the coding involved.  For the complete guide by Turanien which is excellent but involves the module system Click Here.  Hopefully this new system will avoid errors encountered by many due to the scripts.txt file being uneditable without the python files.  Good luck and let me know if you have problems or successes!  Note:  This method is for v1.143.  If we get a newer version, bug me and I'll update.

Setup:

Note: Though people frequently refer to  the battlefield we play in multiplayer as a "Map", in warband it is called "Scene".  This is to avoid confusion with the Single Player World Map, which can also be edited.  For this reason you will see lots of talk about "scenes" instead of "maps" when you actually edit.  Just to clear up any possible confusion.

1. Navigate to the Modules folder in your Warband game files.  (Mine is at C:\Program Files\Mount&Blade Warband\Modules).

2. Make a copy of the "Native" folder here, and name it something you'll recognize (Mine's Kong_Mod).  This is your new "mod" in which you'll create your maps.

3. In the Warband start-up menu (where you choose which module your playing), select "Configure", go to the "Advanced" tab, and make sure "Enable Edit Mode" is checked.

(click to show/hide)

Adding the Scenes:

Download this file:

Kong Ming's Easy Multiplayer Scenes

Unzip it and move the enclosed files into your new module's folder, overwriting the old files.  There, I just saved you a huge pain in the @$$.

With these files in your mod, you will now have 20 new essentially blank maps to edit as you please.  Note that 1-15 are set up for Battle/Deathmatch/Duel, and 16-20 are reserved for Siege.  If you need more (good god), simply create another new mod by starting from the beginning of this guide and copy the files again for 20 more scenes.

The Terrain Code and Scenes.txt:

Warband has a nifty device that allows it to very quickly create a random terrain.  It's called the terrain code and it's basically a loooong hexadecimal number that lives in the scenes.txt file and looks something like this:

scn_my_multi_1 my_multi_1 256 none none 0.000000 0.000000 100.000000 100.000000 -100.000000 0x00000001300389800003a4ea000058340000637a0000399b
  0
  0
 outer_terrain_plain


This long number in bold contains all the info the game needs about the physical terrain, the hills and valleys, the climate, the size, plants, rivers, etc.  How do we make one for our map?  Fire up your mod and get a single-player game started.  Once you get to the world map you should see a new button in the lower left corner called "Terrain" (assuming you still have edit mode enabled).  Clicking "Terrain" will bring you to the Terrain Generator.  Play around with it.  You'll see how the game does what I described. 


IMPORTANT ADVICE REGARDING TERRAIN GENERATOR:

-Unless you just want to be quick and lazy, I recommend always having the "Foliage" slider at 0.  Foliage added to the map with the terrain code CANNOT be edited, delete, moved, scaled, nothing.  It's there forever, and usually not where you want it.  You can add all the plants you want manually later as "models" and can then do all sorts of things to them.

-I've heard advice to avoid using the Place River, Deep Water, or Shade Occluder options.  Use them at your own risk.



Once you've created a terrain that looks close to what you want to start with for your scene, simply click copy to save the Terrain Code to your clipboard.  Then in the scenes.txt file, do a search for "my_scene_1".  You should find the long list of scenes we've added, and each entry looks similar to the code excerpt shown above. Simply replace the terrain code on the scene entry of your choice by pasting in place of the old one found near the end of the line (the bold and underlined text in the excerpt above).  Viola, you have a new terrain.

Also, while we're here, notice the fourth line in the code above that says "outer_terrain_plain".  This determines the scenic ring that surrounds the map you're playing on.  By default I've set all the scenes to plains, which will look fairly crappy if you use a different terrain in the map.  You can simply replace this chunk of code with any of the following for different looks.

outer_terrain_plain
outer_terrain_snow
outer_terrain_steppe
outer_terrain_town_thir_1
outer_terrain_castle_9
outer_terrain_desert
outer_terrain_desert_b
outer_terrain_beach
outer_terrain_plain_2
outer_terrain_snow_2
outer_terrain_steppe_2
sea_outer_terrain_1
sea_outer_terrain_2


Now you have a starting terrain.  Time to make it exactly how you want it.

The Scene Editor:

Run your mod and set up a Multiplayer game (click host instead of join).  Here there are lots of options, but all we really care about is the map.  Choose one of the new maps from the list and run the game.  Note that if you want to do a Siege map you'll have to set the game mode to Siege in order for  maps 16-20 to show up on the list.  If it all goes well, you should now see your basic map as it more or less appeared in the terrain generator.  Now, press Alt-Enter to go into windowed mode.  Then, press Ctrl-E to enter "Edit Mode" (again, assuming edit mode is still enabled).  From this edit mode you can change just about everything.  Note, if you aren't in windowed mode you won't be able to see the tool panel in Edit mode so make sure you do both.  Elevation tool to change the hills, Texture tool to paint the ground, Object Tool to add tree, houses, rocks, walls,etc.  The often overlooked "Help" button is very (get this) helpful.  Lots of info about button combinations and so forth.  There's no undo option so get in the habit of exiting and re-entering edit mode with Ctrl-E.  This saves your work each time.

Strings.txt:

If you ever want to change the name of your map in the selection menu, simply open your strings.txt file and do a search for "my_scene_1".  Here are all the added scenes.  An entry looks like this:

str_my_scene_1 My_Scene_#1

Change the part in bold to whatever name you want using underscores ( _ ) for spaces.  Done and done.


I will continue to develop this guide as I have more time, and expand it to provide some helpful advice on the actual creation of your own scenes, but for now these should be the steps you need to at least get started.

5
Scene Editing / Submit New Map Ideas Here
« on: January 04, 2011, 03:03:01 am »
Welcome to the (un)Official New Map Discussion Thread!

If you want to discuss maps that are already on the servers please refer to this thread:

Maps in Development.

If you have ideas for new maps that you'd like to see developed, this is the place to post.  Before doing so, however, please take a moment to help us all out and read the following:

(click to show/hide)

Ultimately, we'd just like to provide an opportunity to hear ideas and opinions about what could be fun.  Please be descriptive, and post when you've taken a moment to really think about it rather than impulsively throw something up.  Making a map well takes hours of work, and we'd like to spend that time on something people will really enjoy.  What type of map would you spend several hours building if you had the time, know-how, and inclination to do so?

Thanks for your help!

   -Legal

NOTE:  This conversation was transfered from the TaleWorlds forums.   Please resubmit ideas here if you wish to continue discussing them on this thread.  Thanks for your patience!

6
Scene Editing / Maps in Development
« on: January 04, 2011, 02:57:41 am »
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen!

This will henceforth be the discussion thread for independent maps that are being developed specifically for the cRPG servers.  It is intended to be a place where sceners can post info about the maps they are working on, and get feedback from the cRPG community.  Any online FPS-style game is only as good as the maps you play on.  Let's work as a community to make cRPG's the best around!

A few etiquette rules to help keep things managable:

1.  Sceners, please post screenshots inside spoilers to keep this thread streamlined.  Also, provide a specific name for your map so we can refer to it quickly and easily in discussion.

2.  Commentators, please keep the discussion about the maps that are specifically being posted here and how to improve or build upon them.  If you have ideas for new maps, there is a thread specifically for this topic here.  (Yes, I apparently like the word "specific")

Submit New Map Ideas Here.


I am also going to post this link which is Airith's very helpful post about guidelines for maps that are submitted to the NA servers as well as a map list for both the NA1 and NA2 servers.

Map Submission Guidelines


Thanks for helping us get the conversation about map development and improvement up and running!

  -Barely Legal


NOTE:  This discussion is being transfered from the TaleWorlds forums.  Sceners please repost your maps from that board if you wish to continue discussing them here.  Thanks for your patience!

7
Beginner's Help and Guides / Archery Explained
« on: January 04, 2011, 02:44:21 am »
Originally posted on TaleWorlds forum November 30, 2010, 08:50:55 PM

Information is not updated for most recent patch!!!  Please note that effects of Power Draw now function very differently!

There seem to be a lot of questions and confusion about all the different elements of playing an archer in cRPG, and when I first got into archery I found it extremely difficult to find all the pertinent information, so I’ve decided to try and explain just about all of it in one comprehensive post that’s easy to find and refer to.  Most of this information will be based on empirical data, some of it will be opinion,  some may even be conjecture, and some could even be just plain wrong.  Use discretion and know that I welcome input.  I will try to update, correct, embellish, etc.

Okay, let’s get started.  First things first, let’s define some terms:

Strength- Strength (STR) is needed to increase Power Draw and use better armor.  It also improves melee damage, if you archers care about that.  Finally each point of STR provides one more Hit Point.

Agility- Agility (AGI) is needed to increase Weapon Mastery and Athletics.  It also increases weapon speed by 0.5% per point.

In both cases, the maximum level of an archer’s skills is their corresponding attribute divided by three.  Example: for level 6 Weapon Mastery you need 18 Agility.

Power Draw- Henceforth known as PD, this skill is one of two fundamental abilities of any archer.  Each skill point of PD increases all damage dealt with bows (NOT crossbows) by  14%, and to use any given bow, a player must have a PD level of at least the difficulty rating of the bow in question.  Be aware that each point of PD applies a penalty to your Archery Proficiency.  More on this later.

Archery Proficiency- The other of two crucial abilities, this weapon proficiency (WPF)  basically affects every single aspect of using a bow (NOT crossbows).  You increase it by spending Weapon Proficiency Points (WPP), and it costs more WPP to increase the higher it gets.  Here’s what it does:

    1.   Increases damage with bows, though to a lesser degree than PD (Keshian states 100 modified WPF = 15% more damage).
    2.   Improves draw speed AND reduces the tiny little delay between releasing the mouse button and the actual release of the arrow (which  can matter a LOT).
    3.   Affects your reticule in several ways, the reticule being the little aiming crosshairs.
           a.   The reticule settles more quickly from a wild shot to a controlled shot.
           b.   The point at which it settles becomes more precise.
           c.   The reticule will stay settled for longer before arm fatigue causes it to lose precision.

Weapon Mastery- Another skill that’s very important, though only as a means of improving Archery WPF.  Each point spent in Weapon Mastery (WM) provides an increasing amount of WPP.  Each point put into WM gives  WPP equal to 20 + WM level  x 10.  Example: Level 5 WM will give 70 WPP : 20+5x10

Athletics- Many archers swear by it, others ignore it, it’s most often increased when you can afford to after dealing with PD and WM.  This skill increases your run speed by 5% per point.  That doesn’t sound like much, but it’s very helpful when you need to run from a huge knight in plate armor who wants your thigh bone for the soup he’s cooking.

Pure Archer Build- This is entirely subjective, but for the purposes of this guide, any reference to a pure archer implies the following:
    1.   STR is only as high as is needed for the appropriate level of PD.
    2.   Skill points are only spent on PD, WM, and Athletics.
    3.   WPP are only spent on Archery.


Whew!  Now let’s look at one of the major concerns of any archer.  The equipment they can use.

Bows- Yes.  An archer uses bows.  Seven of them actually.  I’ll let you get the specific info off of your character sheet, but here’s what the different traits of a bow mean and the general trend from cheaper to more expensive.

    1.   Price- Hopefully I don’t need to explain this one.
    2.   Weight- Your weapon’s weight will reduce your run speed VERY slightly, and only while it’s actually in your hands.  Unused weapons go in your magical holster of weightlessness.  Increases with cost (generally).
    3.   Difficulty- As stated before, the level of PD required to use the bow.  Increases with cost.
    4.   Spd Rtng- The base speed of the bow, meaning how long it takes to notch an arrow, draw, and let fly.  Decreases with cost (generally).
    5.   Shoot Speed- The speed at which an arrow travels from this bow.  Very handy.  A faster arrow requires less leading of a moving target and less accounting for gravity drop of the arrow over distance.  Simply put, it will be easier to hit what you’re aiming at.  Increases with cost (generally).
    6.   Thrust Damage- The base damage the bow deals.  Note that it’s pierce damage as opposed to blunt or cut.  This is good.  Pierce does quite well against armored targets.  Increases with cost (generally).
    7.   Accuracy- The base accuracy of the bow.  I welcome input on how this specifically applies, but obviously, more is better.  Mtemtko's screenshots can give you a little idea.  Thanks Walt for cropping them.  Increases with price.

Here is a side-by-side version of Mtemtko's images to make the comparison more straightforward.

(click to show/hide)
With 255 WPF and 6 PD, the strong bow and long bow aiming reticule appear to be identical, and both are smaller than the hunting bow.

Anytime I said “generally”, it’s because the Long Bow is sort of a freak in the line-up.  The timeless question of “What bow should I use?” is already discussed extensively in other posts.  All I will say is that it depends heavily on the relationship between PD and Archery WPF, and how accurate you like to be versus how much damage you want to do.  I've included my opinion on this topic in the quote further down.

Arrows- Four options here.  Some would argue only one real one though.
    1.   Price- We’ve been over this.
    2.   Weight- Same.
    3.   Abundance- Useless stat that applies to the likelihood of this item being in a merchant’s inventory.  Like I said, useless.  Unless you plan on a merchant build.
    4.   Weapon Length- Also useless, the length of the arrow.  Useless.  Even to merchant builds.
    5.   Thrust damage- Hey!  A useful stat!  Added to the base damage of your bow.
    6.   Max Ammo- The other one that matters.  The number of arrows in a quiver.

Most people use Bodkins, some prefer Khergit for the extra arrows.  You’ll want one or the other.  Easy extra damage without any added difficulty, which is great.  Heirlooming them gets you 3 more to max ammo, which is frequently done to Bodkins.  You’ll either carry two quivers of these into battle, or you’ll get pretty good at picking up stray ones lying around mid-battle, or both.  (There's no such thing as a merchant build.)

Armor- Armor is of great concern to the archer, and opinions on what armor to wear vary widely.  For the record, you need STR of at least the difficulty rating of any armor to wear it. The main issue with armor for the archer is weight.  Heavier armor applies an increasing penalty to your Archery WPF, which is bad.  But it also protects you and keeps you alive, which is good.  How the total weight of your armor is calculated for the purposes of an armor penalty is as follows:

   Total Armor Weight = Head Weight x 3 + Hand Weight x 2 + Body Weight + Leg Weight

If Total Armor Weight is less than 6, you receive no penalty at all.  Notice the multipliers for head and hand weight.  This is why so many archers go without helmets of any kind.  Also note that weapon/arrow weight does not apply at all.  So carry those two Swords of Cookies without concern.

Melee Weapon- This is strictly a matter of taste.  For a pure archer, you won’t be any good with a melee weapon anyway, so something that lets you parry quickly is probably best.  Some like carrying a Pike to stop charging horses, others a Katana for its speed, others a great big sword for its damage, and still others a Bar Mace to crush through blocks.  Pick something that tickles your fancy.  Again, STR is needed for difficulty.

Heirlooming archer equipment is another largely opinioned topic.  I will say that unlike melee players, an archer is unlikely to heirloom their primary weapon (some disagree).  An heirloomed bow's increased difficulty means a higher required PD and a bigger penalty to WPF (more below).  Instead, most common heirloomed items for archers include arrows, melee weapon, and armor.  More input on this topic is appreciated.


Okay, now for the last, big, confusing topic of incredible importance.  Modified WPF.  What!?

Check this out:

http://infinitum.dyndns.org/crpg/calc.htm  (Once again, thanks to Vargas,  cmpxcgh8b, Fasader, virus_found, and Urist)

There are three great tools here to help you build your character.  Of chief concern to us is the first.  Weight WPF Effect Calculator.

The gist of it is this; your WPF in Archery is modified heavily by both your level of PD, and the weight of your armor (again NOT weapons).  I call this, your Modified Weapon Proficiency (mWPF).  Experiment with the calculator to see what I mean.  You'll notice that with no armor penalty, the relationship between PD and WPF can run the spectrum from huge penalty if PD is high and WPF is low, to massive bonus if WPF is high and PD is low.  Ultimately, the top level archers have a mWPF that is much higher than their base WPF, which is how they hit you in the head from so far away.  From here I’m going to be lazy and repost what I wrote on a different thread and maybe I’ll improve it later when I have time.  It will be a bit less legible to beginners but sums up this issue concisely I feel.  The post was discussing what bow is best to use.


From experience, if you have dreams of glory that involve beating other top archers at dueling as well as hitting headshots from medium to long range, you're going to need a modified WPF of at least 275 if not 300+.  At that point your reticule settles very quickly and to a perfect point, and it stays that way for several seconds.  Getting that high with PD 6 (i.e. Warbow/Longbow) requires about 205-210 base WPF without any armor penalty (less than 6 modified armor weight).  For some perspective, to get that high, you'd need to get to at least level 32 assuming you put skill points only in PD, WM, and Athletics, and dumped the rest into AGI, while putting WPP only into archery (generally this is considered a pure archer build).

To reach similar proficiency with a Khergit Bow at PD 4, you only need about 180-185 base WPF with no armor penalty, which can be reached in a pure archer build at about level 24.

Your Khergit bow is doing 5 base damage less than a Warbow, which is pretty significant.  But notice that you can reach the same level of mastery with a Khergit bow a good 8 levels earlier.  Ultimately, if you're doing anything other than a PURE archer build (No melee skills at all, no horsies, and no real armor), I'd say stick with a Khergit, or Strong at the most.  If, however, you like running away on foot whenever baddies get close, and you wanna 1-2 shot all those silly infantry running around, and you don't mind grinding until your eyes bleed, get a Warbow (or Longbow if you're really crazy) and level until about the mid-30's.  You will then be feared from afar.

In conclusion, everything beneath a Khergit Bow isn't really worth your time and should only be used temporarily.  The step from Nomad to Khergit is by far the best upgrade in the category of bows.  After that, moving up to Strong, and eventually War/Long is a matter of taste but shouldn't be done too hastily.  You'll regret more points in PD if you don't yet have the WPF to handle it.  Track your progress with the calculator above, get your modified archery to at least 250 as quickly as you can, and then upgrade bows to your preference while keeping modified WPF above 250 (275+ for archer heaven).  Bulzer's advice approximates this quite well:

Go for 12 str for your equipment and Khergit, then 15 or 18 agi.
Then 15 str for strong bow, then 21-24 agi.
Then 18 str, and all your other levels go for agi.

Works quite well.

Again, except for the math, this is all my opinion based on personal experience.  Mileage may vary.

NOTE:  It remains to be seen how the next update will affect this advice.  If nothing else, the steeper experience curve that will make anything above level 35 essentially impossible will probably reduce the number of people wielding War/Long bows significantly or else render them a bit less effective since the top archers using those weapons right now are in the level 40 range.  This is all conjecture, feel free to ignore it completely.

As I said at the beginning, I welcome all input, corrections, additions, etc. and I will try to address questions.  Thanks to those who's advice and info are improving this guide.  Note that much of this info deals with a pure archer.  There are many varieties from Archer Knight to Horse Archer that will function differently.  Hopefully this post will give you the info you need to start building your archer the way you want to.  Most importantly, have fun, good luck, and shoot a tin can in the face for me!

  -Barely Legal

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