I have not PvP'd at all, i dont like the pvp of ds1 and on pc apparently theres a lot of hackers so im not so eager on getting softbanned from someone fucking my savefile up lol. The pvp seems to be flourishing though, at least of what ive seen on twitch. It seems less laggy for sure, but its more like a consistent version of what a good connection previously used to be. So no insane lagstabs, but still a couple questionable ones.
Supposedly gravelording works well now, i saw a lot of their signs everywhere when i was online. And people seem to be summoning like crazy, each bonfire is covered in white and yellow. I havent delved into 3 phantom adventures yet that is completely new from ds3, but it seems like gankfests could be happening at a larger scale (but praise be to phantoms using estus, at least balancing it out a tad).