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Guides / A Guide on using the Pike
« on: July 12, 2012, 06:25:47 pm »
A (not so) brief guide on how to use a Pike.


Basics of the Basics:

Most of your hits come from a basic wiggle, essentially just aim slightly to the side or above, release your thrust, turn into the enemy. Preferably doing this while moving forward to maximize damage.
Alternatively, if your opponent is defenseless, a jump thrust can give you a nice damage boost. (This is risky though if your opponent has a chance to block you, since the pike thrust stun lasts around a full second, and therefore can give them a free hit.)

Work on recognizing armor types, and look for where your opponent is weakest. A lot of people who wear really heavy body armor go without a helmet or with shitty leg armor. Aim for the weak points and you'll do a lot more damage. The pike has an easier time picking its target hitbox than any other weapon. - as a side note on this, if you have an ally directly through the enemy, aim for the enemy's feet regardless of what armor they have, because if your ally kills them before you strike, you're thrusting an unbalanced weapon right into your ally. If you aim for the enemy's feet and they die, you'll just hit the ground harmlessly.

Jumping is one of your best tactics, as long as you do it properly. A quick jump, timed properly, can get you out of harms way, behind an ally, or give you a nice damage boost, but timed poorly it can get you a very quick and very humiliating death. Don't jump backwards to try and avoid getting hit from a chambered attack, only do it to get out of range of possible future attacks. There really isn't any way to explain when to do what kind of jump, save for the jumping spin stabs, as it's very situation dependent, you just need to practice and die humiliatingly a few times until you figure it out.

Beware of trying to hit a blocking opponent if they can reach you quickly, as if you thrust and it is either blocked, or hits something it can't damage (such as a building or the ground) you'll be momentarily stunned, this effect is called "Thrust Stun". This can potentially give your enemies a free chance to swing at you, so be mindful of this.

The Pike's hitbox is a bit funny. It doesn't start until about 3-4 feet away from you, which can allow you to stab THROUGH teammates as well as small structures, such as walls. Please note, however, that it is against the server rules to poke through solid objects by simply walking up to them, and thrusting directly through them. "Curving" around them is legal, however. This is done by aiming away from them, begin your thrust, and then aim through them, effectively hitting through them. Poking through teammates is also legal, just watch out that you don't accidentally hit them.

Choosing a Build:

After a fair bit of testing, I prefer the following build:

21/18

7 IF
7 PS
6 ATH
3 WM

98 Polearm WPF
99 2H WPF

2H can be exchanged for w/e you're using as a sidearm.

That said, I've seen people doing very well with the Pike with quite an array of builds, so try things out and just see what feels right to you.


Basic Support Techniques:

A quick foreword: If you get someone rushing up and trying to kill you when you have an ally nearby, go completely on the defensive, do NOT try to retaliate until you are VERY familiar with the Pike. You're much more likely to hit your ally than your enemy.

1. Large Group Fighting: This is the easiest part of playing a pikeman. Essentially, just sit behind the group, poking around teammates. The pike hitbox doesn't start until about 3-4 feet away from you, so as long as you hug people, you can easily stab around them (Just make sure you aren't getting in their way) If someone charges through the group to hit you, hold your ground and block, or try to position the attacker so your group can easily kill him, DO NOT try to retaliate. If this person has a crushthrough weapon, just pray someone kills them before they reach you or you're fucked.

If you see a clusterfuck, the best thing you can do is just stand right outside of it, keeping an attack chambered, and try to predict where the enemy is going to move. Position yourself in such a way that as soon as they break free of the crowd of your allies, you have a free shot at them. Not really any way to explain how to do this, it just takes practice. DO NOT rush into the crowd and try to "help" you'll just get in the way.

2. Small Group fighting: This is personally my favorite way to play, grouping up with 1-3 allies and going on a killing spree. The trick here is to position yourself so that the enemy is forced to choose to only block one of you, while the other kills them. Generally I find the best way to do this is to position yourself approximately 15-60 degrees from your ally, as compared to the enemy. This lets your ally very quickly rush in to help if the enemy decides to rush you, and lets you stab them unhindered by your ally's movements.

Alternatively, if you're very confidant in your ability to block, as well as your ally's ability to fight, you can try and position yourself behind the enemy. If they switch targets to you, try and maneuver towards your ally so they can hit them.

Some notes from Tanken on how to play with a group, as well as how the teammates of a pikeman can help them:
One thing I might add to your guide Caita is an effective strategy of teams including a Pikeman amongst it. One thing that should be done is for your team to anchor onto the Pikeman. If you are a shielder, another polearm user, or a 2handed user, you need to be 100% aware of where your pikeman is at ALL TIMES. They are going to deal a lot of damage in your group, but without your support (as others have mentioned) they will fall quickly if swarmed. Also, work as a group to get packs of people separated. Pick a target, and try and coerce them away from their group of nearest allies. This can easiest be the most effective strategy in dealing with groups of 4-5 people who may otherwise outmatch you. Find them, engage them, if you can't kill them, start strafing to the side of the group and bait them so they follow--THEN get your Shielder or whatever allies you have (assuming they're competent) to engage that individual immediately and take their attention away from their current target.

As Caita mentioned, switching targets in group fights is easily one of the best strategies to do. I always like to picture myself weaving in and out of my teammate's fights to sink in shots and keep moving. This gives me two things; A) The ability to quickly eliminate a target that my teammates are in the process of fighting and they MAY or MAY NOT even know a Pikeman is in the midst, B) It keeps you constantly surveying. Even when fighting infantry you need to keep your eyes up and keep your screen moving. C) HELP. Kill the infantry that is causing the most harm to your teammate. Nothing is more disappointing than a Pikeman, meant for support, engaging an enemy too long and NOT helping kill an otherwise easy infantry kill for the Pikeman. and D) NEVER MISS A HORSE. That horse you missed trampling one of your teammates because you got Tunnel Vision? Guess what, that horse was Huey Newton, or Badplayer, or Rohypnol planting a bolt in someone's dome...You just fucked it up and now you'll be lucky to have another chance to catch them.

One last thing for group fighting, PAIR UP WITH YOUR FAVORITE SHIELDER. If you can communicate with them effectively (skype, ventrilo, ts, whatever) EVEN BETTER. Let them know you are using them for cover. There are few things more startling to enemies than seeing a Pikeman paired effectively with a shielder...get a shield wall with a few pikeman behind and you can hear the piss filling their plated boots. When your team engages, let them engage in front of you. If you can't manage to weave in and out of the line and keep your distance--JUMP. Step 10 feet back from the line, pick a target, and prepare an attack. Then, rush forward and jump and bring the pike down. There has been so many times I would have otherwise struck a teammate or missed if I had not employed jump-tactics with the Pike.

3. Anti-cav: Pikes are, contrary to popular belief, far from the best anti cav weapon. Long Spear and Bamboo Spear are vastly superior anti cav weapons. This is due to the speed difference between the pike and these weapons. Pike is slow as balls, so you need to be chambered quite a bit before the cav get near you, or they'll just lance you before you can get your thrust ready. If you see cav charging you, and an ally is in the way, I'm sorry to say the only thing you can do is try to get positioned such that as soon as the cav runs over/ impales your ally you can stab the horse. It's tempting to try and rush forward to stop the cav before they reach your ally, but more often than not this will just end up with your ally getting in the way and you either stabbing your ally, or not being able to get a hit in and you both get run over, and the cav runs free. Many cav will turn away before reaching your ally anyway if they realize there's a pikeman waiting right afterwards to stop them.

ALWAY AIM FOR THE HORSE. If you strike at the rider they'll more than likely just block you, since you have to be chambered long before they reach you, and because only retarded cav will try to outrange you, they'll be playing defensively.

Generally the only way to take out cav with a pike is by sneak attacks, you're much more useful working as a mobile anti-cav wall, rather than for actually killing them. Do watch out for sudden charges though, as these can potentially catch you without enough time to chamber your attack.

4. Picking your targets. #1 priority is stopping any cav rushing towards your allies, however most cav aren't dumb enough to charge at an aware pike, so just keep this in the back of your mind, and stay alert.
                                     #2 priority is split between crushthrough weapons and other pikemen/longspears. These can be
                                                   extremely deadly in group fights, and are the greatest threat to you as well.                             
                                     #3 is hoplites. Often an underestimated class, they fill a similar role as you do. The reason they're #3 rather than tied for #2 is simply
                                                   because their shield allows them to be better equipped to stop your attacks
                                    #4 is 2H and other Polearms. They can deal heavy damage, but have little ability to protect themselves from you.
                                    #5 is shielders. They have the best ability to stop your attacks, and pose relatively little threat.
                                                  However, keep your eye out for the really aggressive ones, as they can force their way through your allies to you, and
                                                  take a sizeable chunk out of your health before your thrust stun is over.

Also a good note from [ptx] on dealing with other support polearms:
What i could add is that as far as fights between pikes, long spears, bamboo spears and hoplites go, the longer weapon almost always beats the shorter one. Pike is the ultimate anti-long spear weapon, long spear is the ultimate anti-bamboo spear/hoplite weapon. In a group fight, one of these effectively renders enemies with shorter stabbers completely helpless.

A note about picking targets: Watch out for the really good players. They need to be raised on your priority list dramatically. If you notice there's one or two players on the enemy team who are simply tearing your team to pieces, try to get sneak shots in on them. Even the best players have a hard time blocking multiple enemies in addition to a pikeman.

Also a quick note about ranged. Archers in particular seem to be really really bad at estimating when you can hit them. A quick jump stab headshot at the last minute has got me many a kill against ranged.

Weaknesses:

The Pike has a large number of weaknesses that you'll need to learn to overcome.

1. Your attacks are slow. VERY SLOW. Plan ahead, and try not to waste thrusts. Thrusting against a blocking opponent can be useful for goading them into releasing their downblock, but it is a risky move.

2. You have only 1 attack direction. This means, some scrub holding down block is, quite literally, invulnerable to you. This is one of the primary reasons to carry a sidearm, and to have allies near you.

3. Your thrusts will get caught on every rock, tree, wall, table, hill, stairs, and pebble within eyesight. Try to fight in flat open areas that are not easily accessible to cavalry.

4. You are physically incapable of hitting enemies within about 4 feet of you. This means you need to pull some fancy moves in order to have any chance in 1v1 without pulling out your sidearm.

5. You are slowed down based on the length of your held weapon, and the pike is the longest weapon in the game, meaning it slows you down by a fair bit, so in order to not get bogged down you need some extra ath.


Players to watch out for:

First and foremost, beware of throwers. They are the rock to your scissors. In general, try to avoid them and have your allies tie them up/kill them. If it is absolutely necessary that you attack a thrower, do a standard wiggle walk to get close, then jump to either the left or right, and stab them in the head mid jump. Once you're this close, you can pressure them and keep them from being able to throw again.

Very long 2 or 4 directional weapons you also need to beware of, as they can often hit you immediately after a failed thrust, or in the middle of a helicopter stab. Not much you can do about these except play defensively and try to have an ally tie them up.

Finally, watch out for crushthrough weapons. The best tactic against them is generally to either have an ally deal with them, or to pull out your sidearm. If you don't have time to do either of these, you can often avoid their overheads by facehugging them, and running around them.



1v1 Fighting:

Pikes are poor 1v1 weapons, however this does not mean you're defenseless, in fact against some people the pike is a very good choice for 1v1, simply because they assume you're going to be an easy kill.

1. Choosing a sidearm: Some pikers decide to not use a sidearm, and with a longspear I can understand this. Longspear has very few situations where it's totally useless. The Pike, however, has many more weaknesses that a sidearm can help counter. A lot of people choose to use the quarterstaff as their sidearm, but personally I prefer using the Italian Sword, Military Cleaver, Military Pick, fighting axe in 2H mode, or (my personal favorite) the langes messer in 2H mode.

2. Switching to the sidearm: It can often be tricky to decide exactly when to switch, or even HOW to switch to your sidearm. Don't try it if your opponent is swinging away at you, you'll get yourself killed. See #3 below on how to deal with spammers.

One technique that has gotten me a fair number of kills, is to charge towards the enemy with the pike chambered, and right before the tip of the pike reaches them, pull out your side arm and spam 2-3 hits. Many people can't adjust fast enough from fighting a 1 direction pikeman to fighting a 3-4 directional player to immediately start blocking you. Therefore, while they're still downblocking you can often get a couple free hits in.

Other than that, one decent time to switch is immediately after a successful jump thrust, or even before you reach your opponent at all.

3. 180 Helicopter: My personal favorite technique for 1v1 with the pike. It's very useful against spammy opponents looking to kill you as quickly as possible. First, wait for them to run up to you, and block their first couple hits, while backpeddling. You want to give the appearance of being overwhelmed and helpless. After blocking one of their hits, run to either their left or right, forcing them to use a sideswing, which you can predict and easily block (Or if you have heavy armor and they have a low-medium damage cut weapon, you can cause them to glance.) Immediately after passing them, jump and begin chambering your Pike while turning. Turn until you're approximately 15 degrees from aiming at them, then release your attack and guide it into them.

This takes a lot of work to perfect, and will lead to many a humiliating death at first. Don't give up, just keep trying.

4. 360 Helicopter: A bit more advanced the the 180, but possibly even more useful. The basic idea is the same, the difference being that rather than running past them before jumping, you simply turn around and jump. The problem is that if they decide to do a quick attack right before you jump, you get stabbed in the back. The trick with this is to wait for them to pause for a moment. If they're spamming as fast as they can, don't try this. The big advantage here is that you appear to be even more vulnerable, and most people will try to get a hit in, which can allow you to get a nice stab past their down block.

5. Backwards Jumping: This is useful for getting away from an enemy that can't retaliate (For example a downed cav), but if they can retaliate DO NOT TRY A BACKWARDS JUMP. It works with the longspear, but with the pike it's a surefire way to get yourself killed. The pike is long enough that a backwards jump won't put you far enough away to get a hit in. You'll just hit the ground, even if you wiggle.

6. Sideways Helicopter: A very useful technique, but one that requires you to have the timing down perfectly, have decent ping, be facing an opponent with a fairly slow weapon (preferably also a short one), and to be able to goad your opponent into attacking you while you have an attack prepped. Essentially, chamber your pike and begin strafing sideways while facing around 45 degrees away from them. Generally they'll keep a downblock held until they're around facehug range, at which point many people think they're safe. Once they start an attack, IMMEDIATELY jump to the side, away from them, turn into them and release your thrust. This is a risky move and takes a lot of practice. Don't use it if you can avoid it.

A final note about jumping spin stabs, don't try them on a single opponent more than about 2-3 times in a row. They'll figure out what you're up to and you'll get stabbed in the back. After you've tried a few of these, even if they're working, switch to your sidearm.

Final Notes:

1. Stay with the Group! The pike is not a solo weapon. It is a phenomenal support weapon, but if you want to go rambo, get something else. Sometimes you'll end up with a team that simply isn't cohesive enough for the pike to be effective. If this happens, just switch to a different weapon until you get onto a different team.

2. Bind your "view outfit" command to a very easy to reach button. I use the left shift key for mine. Some people seem to have this notion that cavalry leave pikemen alone. Let me tell you right now this is 100% false. Cav will keep an eye on you throughout the fight, and if they think you're vulnerable or not paying attention, they'll lance you in the back. So, stay alert!

3. Pay attention to your allies. You're there to support them, they're there to protect you. Despite this, you can't always depend on them to try to hold up to their end of that. Some people just don't understand how to play with a pikeman, others just don't really care. Therefore, try to predict how your allies will react to what you and your enemies do, and try to turn the tide of fights in favor of your allies. Even just standing nearby with an attack chambered can be enough to make your enemies slip up.

4. Don't let the anti pike trolls get to you.
One final note for pike users, don't let people get to you. They will complain about this being a broken weapon, or a noob weapon, or just OP in general. The facts speak for themselves, and the amount of skill needed to use this weapon effectively and top score boards with it is immense. There are a handful of people in NA I can think of that are great Pike Users, Caita is one of them. A lot of people will pick up a pike and use it, but until you dedicate a generation or more to it really feeling it out and really fully learning it--you'll never appreciate it's beauties, strengths, and understand it's flaws and limits.

If anyone has something they want me to cover, or thinks I'm wrong about something, feel free to comment and add suggestions. I'll probably edit this periodically.


NOTE: This was originally posted in the Beginner's Section, but seeing as it needed editing, the original topic was quite old, and I had meant to put it here originally anyway, I'm just starting a new topic here.

2
Suggestions Corner / Strategus: Crafting
« on: February 24, 2012, 09:41:43 pm »
So, currently crafting really bogs people down, making it so that "gameplay" involves sitting in a fief, crafting, and occasionally logging in to sell/transfer items. There are hundreds of other things people COULD do that would really add more depth to the game, such as scouting, looking for specific items in markets, etc. Yet, due to the fact that 90% of a clan needs to be actively crafting while the other 10% or less actually DOES stuff, it allows for situations like we have now where only a very very tiny percentage of people are actually doing anything more than sitting in a fief crafting.

The suggestion then, is this:

Allow people to craft in a fief by simply visiting it, and beginning the crafting process. Once this has started, they are free to leave and do other things while they continue to craft items at the fief, which will be held there until they return. The efficiency of the fief would be hampered by having people crafting there by the same amount as if those players were still in the fief. Obviously the owner of the fief would have the option to forcibly take the goods/equipment, or to simply stop the crafting. This would make it risky to leave while crafting in a fief where you don't distinctly trust the holders to not just grab your stuff while you're away, and would stop weird situations like having an enemy of a clan actively crafting in their fief.

Additionally, they can only craft at ONE fief at a time, if they begin crafting in another fief, the crafting in the previous one will cease.

The only "gameplay" this would simplify is the process of having to log in every few days to transfer goods, while allowing people MUCH more freedom to actually participate in the game.

3
Beginner's Help and Guides / A Guide on using the Pike
« on: February 01, 2012, 02:12:06 am »
A (not so) brief guide on how to use a Pike.


Basics of the Basics (Stabbing Shit 101):

Most of your hits come from a basic wiggle, essentially just aim to the side or above, release your thrust, turn into the enemy. Preferably doing this while moving forward to maximize damage.
Alternatively, if your opponent is defenseless, a jump thrust can give you a nice damage boost. (This is risky though if your opponent has a chance to block you, since the pike thrust stun lasts around a full second, and therefore can give them a free hit.)

Work on recognizing armor types, and look for where your opponent is weakest. A lot of people who wear really heavy body armor go without a helmet or with shitty leg armor. Aim for the weak points and you'll do a ton more damage. The pike has an easier time picking its target hitbox than any other weapon. - as a side note on this, if you have an ally directly through the enemy, aim for the enemy's feet regardless of what armor they have, because if your ally kills them before you strike, you're thrusting an unbalanced weapon right into your ally. If you aim for the enemy's feet and they die, you'll just hit the ground harmlessly.

Jumping is one of your best tactics, as long as you do it properly. A quick jump, timed properly, can get you out of harms way, behind an ally, or give you a nice damage boost, but timed poorly it can get you a very quick and very humiliating death. Don't jump backwards to try and avoid getting hit from a chambered attack, only do it to get out of range of possible future attacks. There really isn't any way to explain when to do what kind of jump, save for the jumping spin stabs, as it's very situation dependent, you just need to practice and die humiliatingly a few times until you figure it out.

Beware of trying to hit a blocking opponent if they can reach you quickly, as if you thrust and it is either blocked, or hits something it can't damage (such as a building or the ground) you'll be momentarily stunned, this effect is called "Thrust Stun". This can potentially give your enemies a free chance to swing at you, so be mindful of this.

The Pike's hitbox is a bit funny. It doesn't start until about 3-4 feet away from you, which can allow you to stab THROUGH teammates as well as small structures, such as walls. Please note, however, that it is against the server rules to poke through solid objects by simply walking up to them, and thrusting directly through them. "Curving" around them is legal, however. This is done by aiming away from them, begin your thrust, and then aim through them, effectively hitting through them. Poking through teammates is also legal, just watch out that you don't accidentally hit them.

Choosing a Build:

(Quick Sidenote: I never use weaponmaster with my pike builds, it's useless. Just convert those points into more agi, and therefore more athletics, or more strength, and therefore more powerstrike)

The Pike actually works very well with a number of different builds. you can go 18/24 for maximum mobility. This is very much a support build. Your damage will be poor, but you can get hits in the easiest. You can also go 30/12 and hit very hard, but you won't be nearly as mobile. My personal favorite is 24/18. You get a good amount of mobility, and can still hit very hard.

For armor, I recommend going around the level of Coat of Plates, but essentially this is just up to your personal preference.


Basic Support Techniques:

A quick foreword: If you get someone rushing up and trying to kill you when you have an ally nearby, go completely on the defensive, do NOT try to retaliate. You're much more likely to hit your ally than your enemy.

1. Large Group Fighting: This is the easiest part of playing a pikeman. Essentially, just sit behind the group, poking around teammates. The pike hitbox doesn't start until about 3-4 feet away from you, so as long as you hug people, you can easily stab around them (Just make sure you aren't getting in their way) If someone charges through the group to hit you, hold your ground and block, or try to position the attacker so your group can easily kill him, DO NOT try to retaliate. If this person has a crushthrough weapon, just pray someone kills them before they reach you or you're fucked.

If you see a clusterfuck, the best thing you can do is just stand right outside of it, keeping an attack chambered, and try to predict where the enemy is going to move. Position yourself in such a way that as soon as they break free of the crowd of your allies, you have a free shot at them. Not really any way to explain how to do this, it just takes practice. DO NOT rush into the crowd and try to "help" you'll just get in the way.

2. Small Group fighting: This is personally my favorite way to play, grouping up with 1-3 allies and going on a killing spree. The trick here is to position yourself so that the enemy is forced to choose to only block one of you, while the other kills them. Generally I find the best way to do this is to position yourself approximately 15-60 degrees from your ally, as compared to the enemy. This lets your ally very quickly rush in to help if the enemy decides to rush you, and lets you stab them unhindered by your ally's movements.

Some notes from Tanken on how to play with a group, as well as how the teammates of a pikeman can help them:
One thing I might add to your guide Caita is an effective strategy of teams including a Pikeman amongst it. One thing that should be done is for your team to anchor onto the Pikeman. If you are a shielder, another polearm user, or a 2handed user, you need to be 100% aware of where your pikeman is at ALL TIMES. They are going to deal a lot of damage in your group, but without your support (as others have mentioned) they will fall quickly if swarmed. Also, work as a group to get packs of people separated. Pick a target, and try and coerce them away from their group of nearest allies. This can easiest be the most effective strategy in dealing with groups of 4-5 people who may otherwise outmatch you. Find them, engage them, if you can't kill them, start strafing to the side of the group and bait them so they follow--THEN get your Shielder or whatever allies you have (assuming they're competent) to engage that individual immediately and take their attention away from their current target.

As Caita mentioned, switching targets in group fights is easily one of the best strategies to do. I always like to picture myself weaving in and out of my teammate's fights to sink in shots and keep moving. This gives me two things; A) The ability to quickly eliminate a target that my teammates are in the process of fighting and they MAY or MAY NOT even know a Pikeman is in the midst, B) It keeps you constantly surveying. Even when fighting infantry you need to keep your eyes up and keep your screen moving. C) HELP. Kill the infantry that is causing the most harm to your teammate. Nothing is more disappointing than a Pikeman, meant for support, engaging an enemy too long and NOT helping kill an otherwise easy infantry kill for the Pikeman. and D) NEVER MISS A HORSE. That horse you missed trampling one of your teammates because you got Tunnel Vision? Guess what, that horse was Huey Newton, or Badplayer, or Rohypnol planting a bolt in someone's dome...You just fucked it up and now you'll be lucky to have another chance to catch them.

One last thing for group fighting, PAIR UP WITH YOUR FAVORITE SHIELDER. If you can communicate with them effectively (skype, ventrilo, ts, whatever) EVEN BETTER. Let them know you are using them for cover. There are few things more startling to enemies than seeing a Pikeman paired effectively with a shielder...get a shield wall with a few pikeman behind and you can hear the piss filling their plated boots. When your team engages, let them engage in front of you. If you can't manage to weave in and out of the line and keep your distance--JUMP. Step 10 feet back from the line, pick a target, and prepare an attack. Then, rush forward and jump and bring the pike down. There has been so many times I would have otherwise struck a teammate or missed if I had not employed jump-tactics with the Pike.

3. Anti-cav: Pikes are, contrary to popular belief, far from the best anti cav weapon. Long Spear and Bamboo Spear are vastly superior anti cav weapons. This is due to the speed difference between the pike and these weapons. Pike is slow as balls, so you need to be chambered quite a bit before the cav get near you, or they'll just lance you before you can get your thrust ready. If you see cav charging you, and an ally is in the way, I'm sorry to say the only thing you can do is try to get positioned such that as soon as the cav runs over/ impales your ally you can stab the horse. It's tempting to try and rush forward to stop the cav before they reach your ally, but more often than not this will just end up with your ally getting in the way and you either stabbing your ally, or not being able to get a hit in and you both get run over, and the cav runs free. Many cav will turn away before reaching your ally anyway if they realize there's a pikeman waiting right afterwards to stop them.

ALWAY AIM FOR THE HORSE. If you strike at the rider they'll more than likely just block you, since you have to be chambered long before they reach you, and because only retarded cav will try to outrange you, they'll be playing defensively.

Generally the only way to take out cav with a pike is by sneak attacks, you're much more useful working as a mobile anti-cav wall, rather than for actually killing them. Do watch out for sudden charges though, as these can potentially catch you without enough time to chamber your attack.

4. Picking your targets. #1 priority is stopping any cav rushing towards your allies, however most cav aren't dumb enough to charge at an aware pike, so just keep this in the back of your mind, and stay alert.
                                     #2 priority is split between crushthrough weapons and other pikemen/longspears. These can be extremely deadly in group fights, and are the greatest threat to you as well.                             
                                     #3 is hoplites. Often an underestimated class, they fill a similar role as you do. The reason they're #3 rather than tied for #2 is simply because their shield allows them to be better equipped to stop your attacks
                                    #4 is 2H and other Polearms. They can deal heavy damage, but have little ability to protect themselves from you.
                                    #5 is shielders. They have the best ability to stop your attacks, and pose relatively little threat.

Also a good note from [ptx] on dealing with other support polearms:
What i could add is that as far as fights between pikes, long spears, bamboo spears and hoplites go, the longer weapon almost always beats the shorter one. Pike is the ultimate anti-long spear weapon, long spear is the ultimate anti-bamboo spear/hoplite weapon. In a group fight, one of these effectively renders enemies with shorter stabbers completely helpless.

A note about picking targets: Watch out for the really good players. They need to be raised on your priority list dramatically. If you notice there's one or two players on the enemy team who are simply tearing your team to pieces, try to get sneak shots in on them. Even the best players have a hard time blocking multiple enemies as well as a pikeman.

Also a quick note about ranged. Archers in particular seem to be really really bad at estimating when you can hit them. A quick jump stab headshot at the last minute has got me many a kill against ranged.

1v1 Fighting:

Pikes are poor 1v1 weapons, however this does not mean you're defenseless, in fact against some people the pike is a very good choice for 1v1, simply because they assume you're going to be an easy kill.

1. Choosing a sidearm: Some pikers decide to not use a sidearm, and with a longspear I can understand this. Longspear has very few situations where it's totally useless. Pike, on the other hand, has situations where it is 100% worthless. Some examples are: In very confined quarters (such as the bottom of the ruined buildings, or alleyways), or against crushthrough weapons. A lot of people choose to use the quarterstaff as their sidearm, but personally I prefer using the Italian Sword, Military Cleaver, Military Pick, or (my personal favorite) the langes messer. You don't even really need wpf to be effective with these, however I recommend putting some in anyway. Even with no weaponmaster you can go around 80 wpf in 2 weapons, or do 100 in one and 55 in another. This is largely just personal preference, try things out and see what works for you.

2. Switching to the sidearm: It can often be tricky to decide exactly when to switch, or even HOW to switch to your sidearm. Don't try it if your opponent is swinging away at you, you'll get yourself killed. See #3 below on how to deal with spammers.

One technique that has gotten me a fair number of kills, is to charge towards the enemy with the pike chambered, and right before the tip of the pike reaches them, pull out your side arm and spam 2-3 hits. Many people can't adjust fast enough from fighting a 1 direction pikeman to fighting a 3-4 directional player to immediately start blocking you. Therefore, while they're still downblocking you can often get a couple free hits in.

Other than that, one decent time to switch is immediately after a successful jump thrust, or even before you reach your opponent at all.

3. 180 Jumping Spin Stab: My personal favorite technique for 1v1 with the pike. It's very useful against spammy opponents looking to kill you as quickly as possible. First, wait for them to run up to you, and block their first couple hits, while backpeddling. You want to give the appearance of being overwhelmed and helpless. Immediately after, or even in the act of, blocking one of their hits, run FORWARD, trying to run past them. As soon as you get next to them, begin chambering your attack and jump FORWARD, release your attack and turn 180*, stabbing them right as you land.

This takes a lot of work to perfect, and will lead to many a humiliating death at first. Don't give up, just keep trying.

4. 360 Jumping Spin Stab: A bit more advanced the the 180, but possibly even more useful. The basic idea is the same, the difference being that rather than running past them before jumping, you simply turn around and jump. The problem is that if they decide to do a quick attack right before you jump, you get stabbed in the back. The trick with this is to wait for them to pause for a moment. If they're spamming as fast as they can, don't try this. The big advantage here is that you appear to be even more vulnerable, and most people will try to get a hit in, which can allow you to get a nice stab past their down block.


These sections (3+4) will need to be revised after I have a chance to test the new slowed down thrust-turns, so disregard for now.

5. Backwards Jumping: This is useful for getting away from an enemy that can't retaliate (For example a downed cav), but if they can retaliate DO NOT TRY A BACKWARDS JUMP. It works with the longspear, but with the pike it's a surefire way to get yourself killed. The pike is long enough that a backwards jump won't put you far enough away to get a hit in. You'll just hit the ground, even if you wiggle.

A final note about jumping spin stabs, don't try them on a single opponent more than about 2-3 times in a row. They'll figure out what you're up to and you'll get stabbed in the back. After you've tried a few of these, even if they're working, switch to your sidearm.

Final Notes:

1. Stay with the Group! The pike is not a solo weapon. It is a phenomenal support weapon, but if you want to go rambo, get something else. Sometimes you'll end up with a team that simply isn't cohesive enough for the pike to be effective. If this happens, just switch to a different weapon until you get onto a different team.

2. Bind your "view outfit" command to a very easy to reach button. I use the left shift key for mine. Some people seem to have this notion that cavalry leave pikemen alone. Let me tell you right now this is 100% false. Cav will keep an eye on you throughout the fight, and if they think you're vulnerable or not paying attention, they'll lance you in the back. So, stay alert!

3. Pay attention to your allies. You're there to support them, they're there to protect you. Despite this, you can't always depend on them to try to hold up to their end of that. Some people just don't understand how to play with a pikeman, others just don't really care. Therefore, try to predict how your allies will react to what you and your enemies do, and try to turn the tide of fights in favor of your allies. Even just standing nearby with an attack chambered can be enough to make your enemies slip up.

4. Don't let the anti pike trolls get to you.
One final note for pike users, don't let people get to you. They will complain about this being a broken weapon, or a noob weapon, or just OP in general. The facts speak for themselves, and the amount of skill needed to use this weapon effectively and top score boards with it is immense. There are a handful of people in NA I can think of that are great Pike Users, Caita is one of them. A lot of people will pick up a pike and use it, but until you dedicate a generation or more to it really feeling it out and really fully learning it--you'll never appreciate it's beauties, strengths, and understand it's flaws and limits.


If anyone has something they want me to cover, or thinks I'm wrong about something, feel free to comment and add suggestions. I'll probably edit this periodically.

EDIT: Just realized I probably should have put this in the Guides section, so if it could be moved I'd appreciate it.

EDIT: Added info about thrust stun and poking through objects/teammates under the Basics Section.

EDIT: Expanded on target selection, and made some things a little clearer.

EDIT: Added quotes from Tanken and [ptx]

EDIT: Spin-thrust section needs revision, will do so once I have a chance to test more.

4
Buy / Closed
« on: January 26, 2012, 02:18:07 am »
Deal completed.

5
Suggestions Corner / Increase Maximum Number Of Items
« on: January 21, 2012, 05:33:12 am »
So, I apparently hit the maximum number of items that can be owned and loaded into the game. If I buy any more, the ones at the bottom of the list won't load into the game. Therefore, I would like to suggest increasing how many items the game can load from the website. :D

6
Suggestions Corner / Constant Nerfing and Buffing needs to STOP
« on: January 19, 2012, 03:17:07 am »
This constant nerfing and buffing is creating ridiculous confusion and lots and lots of tears. The community and item balance team need a break from the constant ups and downs to actually have a chance to adjust and test things out. I've heard there is a new system for ranged in the works that bumps body damage to 100% but decreases limb damage. My suggestion is to let this last change occur, since ranged is kind of screwed right now, and then to do NO nerfs OR buffs for 2-3 months to let things settle and allow people to adjust a bit.

EDIT: 5th option added for slowing nerfing and buffing.

7
Scene Editing / Battle Map: Ancient Temple
« on: January 15, 2012, 10:07:11 pm »
Got sick of having every map be the same old villages, so I decided to try making something completely different.

The map is composed of numerous small hills with rocks and stone columns interspersed throughout. In the center of the map are 3 hills, the most Northern is more or less unprotected, but offers the easiest access to the central temple. On the center hill is the main feature of the map, an ancient temple surrounded by columns which can be used for cover. The southern hill is completely open from the rear, and faces the steepest slope of the temple, but has decent cover facing the center of the map. In the north western corner of the map lies an ancient graveyard, which has some cover to all sides, but offers little protection from a good ranged player.

It's a fairly empty map, but that's largely the point. My hope with it is to give players almost as much freedom as random plains, but with a little more direction and less... randomness.

Overview:
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Temple, as seen after reaching it from team 2 spawn:
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Temple, as seen from about halfway from the team 1 spawn:
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View From Team 1 Spawn:
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View From Team 2 Spawn:
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Temple, as seen from the Southern hill:
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View from the temple, facing westward:
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The graveyard, as seen from the South:
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Temple, as seen from the Northern hill at night:
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Link to MB Repository: http://www.mbrepository.com/file.php?id=3479

8
General Discussion / Longspear Heirloom problem
« on: January 07, 2012, 10:53:51 am »
Ok So, just retired and heirloomed my Deadly Long Spear. Problem is, it has now turned into a "Tempered Pike", and cannot be selected in game. I'm quite certain I selected the right item.

visitors can't see pics , please register or login


So... help?

EDIT: Got enough strength now to use it, still listed as the "Tempered Pike" and is unusable, but according to the retire menu, it's a Balanced Long Spear (Which it should be), and can be loomed into a Masterwork Long Spear.

9
Scene Editing / Battle: Old Fort With Village
« on: August 18, 2011, 07:44:05 am »
Edit of my first Battle map. I added a ton of cover, took out most of the archer nests, and flattened the entire map to allow cav some better mobility. I also added barriers on all the roofs so no siege ladder foolishness.

The map originally geared much too strongly towards archers, and made it almost impossible to play cav. Hopefully with these fixes it's more balanced.

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(Normally I won't make a new topic for an edit, but I didn't have this in its own topic originally, and would like feedback and a chance to edit anything before posting it in Finished Maps)

DL Link: http://www.mbrepository.com/file.php?id=3152

10
Scene Editing / Battle: Winter City
« on: August 18, 2011, 04:56:20 am »
My second attempt at a c-rpg Battle map. Spawns are by the two gatehouses and 99% of the roofs have barriers on them (so no siege ladder foolishness). Also, the keep has a barrier around it, so no entering the center zone.

Criticism and comments appreciated!

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DL link: http://www.mbrepository.com/file.php?id=3151

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